Frame fixings use a nylon plug and a screw that is tightened with a screwdriver. The screw is driven in and expands the plug, pulling it tight against the masonry. This gives you the ability to adjust the tightness and is better suited to heavier loads such as window frames and door linings. Hammer fixings are pre-assembled and driven fully home with a hammer rather than screwed in. The thread on the nail acts like a barb, gripping the masonry as the plug expands. They are quicker to install but generally used for lighter applications such as battens, skirting boards, and cable clips.
Frame and Hammer Fixings for Brick, Concrete and Block
MacBlair stocks a range of frame and hammer fixings for securing materials to brick, concrete, stone, and block. These are go-to fixings when standard screws alone won't do the job. Frame fixings use a nylon plug and screw combination with a push-through installation method, making them well suited to window frames, metal fittings, and wooden battens fixed into solid masonry. They work across a variety of substrates including hollow block, sand-lime brick, and lightweight block.
Hammer-in fixings take a different approach. The plug is driven fully home with a hammer rather than a screwdriver, with the thread acting like a barb to grip the masonry as it expands. Quick to install and pre-assembled, they suit lighter applications such as skirting boards, timber battens, electrical fittings, plumbing fittings, radiators, and cable clips. Both types are available in multiple sizes, with M8 and M10 diameters across a range of lengths to suit varying material thicknesses. Choosing the right size matters: the fixing should penetrate deep enough into the masonry to grip properly, not just through the surface material. For anything hollow or cavity-based, see the anchors range or wall plugs for alternative options.
Common applications across both fixing types include:
- Window and door frames (uPVC, timber, aluminium) fixed to brickwork or concrete
- Timber battens and wall plates secured to solid masonry
- Skirting boards, architraves, and electrical fittings
- Metal fittings, signage, and cable conduit clips
- Radiators, plumbing fittings, and brick ties
For jobs where fixings go into plasterboard surfaces rather than solid masonry, a different fixing type is needed. If the project also calls for general fasteners, the full wood screws range and fixings category at MacBlair cover a wide variety of applications for trade and DIY alike.
Frame Hammer and Fixings FAQ's
Yes. Both types are suitable for a range of solid masonry substrates including concrete, brick, stone, sand-lime brick, and low-density block. They are not suitable for hollow block or cavity walls without using a specialist anchor or toggle fixing instead. Always check the product specification for the substrates listed before installing.
The key is to make sure the fixing penetrates deep enough into the masonry to grip, not just through the material being fixed. As a general guide, the plug should sit entirely within the masonry, not in the timber or frame. For example, if you are fixing a 40mm batten, a 100mm fixing is often recommended so there is sufficient depth into the wall. Drill the hole approximately 10mm deeper than the length of the fixing to allow for dust and full insertion. M8 fixings are common for most batten and skirting work; M10 is typically used for heavier-duty frame applications.
Drill through the material being fixed and into the masonry to the correct depth, using a masonry or SDS drill bit sized to match the fixing diameter. Clear dust from the hole. Push the nylon plug fully into the masonry so it sits flush, then insert the screw and tighten with a screwdriver until the fixing is secure. Avoid overtightening, which can crack or strip the plug. For hammer fixings, push the plug into the hole then drive the nail home with a hammer until fully seated. No screwdriver is needed for the final installation of a hammer fixing.
Yes, though it takes a little more effort than a standard screw. Because the thread on a hammer fixing is designed to grip on the pull rather than turn like a conventional screw, the nail can actually be unscrewed carefully with a screwdriver if needed. The nylon plug can then be prised out of the masonry. That said, removal can disturb the surrounding substrate, particularly in softer stone or older brickwork, so it is worth planning your fixing positions carefully before installation.